Hitches, Receivers & Ball Mounts
Trailer Hitch Classes Explained
Class is a capacity band. Receiver size is a hole measurement. They correlate and they are not the same thing.
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Short answer
Hitch classes band receivers by capacity: Class 1 and 2 for light loads, Class 3 for most half-ton and SUV towing, Class 4 for heavier trailers, Class 5 for heavy-duty. The class is on the receiver's label along with two separate ratings.
The two ratings on every label
Every receiver carries a gross trailer weight figure and a tongue weight figure. Many also carry a second pair for use with a weight distribution hitch, which is higher. All four numbers are on the label, and the weight-distributing pair only applies when such a hitch is actually fitted.
The classes
| Class | Typical receiver | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Class 1 | 1-1/4 in | Bike racks, very small utility trailers, cargo carriers |
| Class 2 | 1-1/4 in | Small utility and light boat trailers |
| Class 3 | 2 in | Most half-ton and SUV towing, mid-size travel trailers |
| Class 4 | 2 in | Larger travel trailers, heavier equipment trailers |
| Class 5 | 2 in, 2-1/2 in or 3 in | Heavy-duty trucks, large trailers, commercial use |
Capacity figures differ by manufacturer and by vehicle application. Always read the label on the receiver rather than assuming a class figure.
Why the vehicle matters as much as the hitch
A Class 4 receiver on a vehicle whose payload runs out at 1,200 lb does not give you Class 4 towing. Your real limit is the lowest of: the receiver's rating, the vehicle's tow rating, the vehicle's GVWR and GAWR, the ball mount's rating, the ball's rating and the trailer coupler's rating. The federal certification label required by 49 CFR 567.4 gives you GVWR and GAWR for each axle; the rest come from the parts themselves.
Quick picks
Tap any row to jump to the full write-up. How these are chosen - and what we do and do not claim to know - is published in full on our research methodology page.
| # | Product | Best for | Our read | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |  CURT Loaded Ball Mount with 2 in Ball (2 in drop, 7,500 lb) Typical Class 3 hardware | One trailer at a known height | 7,500 lb gross, 750 lb tongue | Check price on Amazon #ad Affiliate link - we publish no price; Amazon shows the current one |
| 2 |  CURT Adjustable Channel Mount with Dual Ball (2 in shank, 6 in drop) Class 4 and up | Garages with several trailers | 14,000 lb with the larger ball | Check price on Amazon #ad Affiliate link - we publish no price; Amazon shows the current one |
| 3 |  CURT Anti-Rattle Hitch Pin and Shim (2 in receiver) Fits any 2 in receiver | Killing receiver rattle | Class-agnostic, removes play | Check price on Amazon #ad Affiliate link - we publish no price; Amazon shows the current one |
1. Typical Class 3 hardware
CURT Loaded Ball Mount with 2 in Ball (2 in drop, 7,500 lb)
CURT · Best for one trailer at a known height
A one-piece mount with the ball already fitted and torqued, rated to 7,500 lb gross and 750 lb tongue with a 2 in drop. Nothing adjusts, which is exactly why nothing rattles or works loose.
Published specifications
What works
- Arrives with the ball fitted, so there is no torque step to get wrong
- One piece means nothing to loosen or rattle
- Light enough to leave in the receiver or throw in a toolbox
What does not
- The 2 in drop is the only drop - measure before you buy
- 7,500 lb ceiling rules out heavier trailers
Skip it if
Useless on a lifted truck, where a 2 in drop will still leave the trailer nose-high and the weight on the rear axle of the trailer.
#ad Affiliate link - we publish no price; Amazon shows the current one
Raw specifications: CURT’s own page. We earn nothing on that link.
2. Class 4 and up
CURT Adjustable Channel Mount with Dual Ball (2 in shank, 6 in drop)
CURT · Best for garages with several trailers
One mount that covers two ball sizes and a range of heights, which is the answer when the garage contains a boat trailer, a utility trailer and a camper that all sit at different heights. Capacity drops to the lower-rated ball you are actually using.
Published specifications
What works
- Two ball sizes and a height range in a single mount
- Flipping it gives rise as well as drop
- Rated to 14,000 lb on the larger ball
What does not
- Heavy, and more joints means more places for rattle to start
- The pins and bolts need checking for torque, unlike a one-piece mount
Skip it if
Pointless if you own one trailer and tow it with one truck - a fixed mount at the right height is lighter, quieter and cheaper.
#ad Affiliate link - we publish no price; Amazon shows the current one
Raw specifications: CURT’s own page. We earn nothing on that link.
3. Fits any 2 in receiver
CURT Anti-Rattle Hitch Pin and Shim (2 in receiver)
CURT · Best for killing receiver rattle
A pin plus a wedge shim that takes the slop out of the gap between a 2 in mount and a 2 in receiver. That gap is a manufacturing tolerance, not a fault, and this is the cheapest thing on the whole site that fixes a real, daily annoyance.
Published specifications
What works
- Removes the clunk over expansion joints for very little money
- Fits in a glovebox and transfers between vehicles
- No modification to the receiver or the mount
What does not
- Does nothing about rattle originating at the coupler or the sway bar
- Listed as superseded, so check the current item number
Skip it if
Not the fix if the noise is coming from a loose ball nut or a worn coupler - find the source first, because a shim will just mask it.
#ad Affiliate link - we publish no price; Amazon shows the current one
Raw specifications: CURT’s own page. We earn nothing on that link.
Key takeaways
- Class is a capacity band; receiver size is a measurement. They are different things.
- Every label carries both weight-carrying and, often, weight-distributing ratings.
- The weakest link in the chain sets your real capacity.
- Vehicle ratings constrain the hitch, not the other way round.
How we sourced this
Every figure on this page came from one of the following, each fetched while the page was written. Where a manufacturer or regulator does not publish a number, we say so rather than estimate it.
Common questions
- What class hitch do I have?
- Read the label on the receiver. If it is missing or illegible, the manufacturer's fit guide for your vehicle will usually tell you which part was fitted.
- Can I upgrade from Class 3 to Class 4?
- You can fit a higher-rated receiver if one exists for your vehicle, but your vehicle's own ratings do not change. If payload or tow rating was the binding limit, a bigger receiver buys nothing.
- Does class affect what ball mount I can use?
- Indirectly. The mount must be rated for the load and must fit the tube size. A Class 3 and a Class 4 receiver often take the same 2 in mounts.
More in Hitches, Receivers & Ball Mounts
Class, receiver size, ball diameter, drop. Four numbers decide whether your setup is right, and three of them are stamped on parts you already own.
Read next
Head to head
Class 3 vs Class 4
What actually separates the two classes, and the common situation where upgrading the receiver changes nothing.
Reference
Receiver Sizes Chart
Tube sizes, pin hole diameters, what fits what, and the derating that comes with a reducer sleeve.
Head to head
Hitch vs Receiver
A plain-language glossary of the hitch assembly, so that part diagrams and forum advice stop contradicting each other.
Guide
How Much Can My Truck Tow?
The four ratings that constrain a tow, where each is published, and the order to work through them.
Found something out of date, or a figure you can source better than we did? Corrections get read first. How we research explains how these pages are put together, and contact is one click away.